Building a Ladder… My First Coat.

Blog, Creatives Create, Style & Fashion, What I Sewed

I’ve been in this love, schmoozie feeling about sewing lately. Before, it was all about how fast I could pump something out. Then the Rona hit and lockdown followed. But, unlike the perceived masses that blossomed in lockdown, I sort of just kept myself still. Assessing myself, my feelings, letting God speak… LISTENING…

And in the listening, He gave me love back. Not by way of a bae, but in the restoration of loving the work of sewing. I wasn’t consumed with 3 hour sew projects – and no shade because a quick shirt or skirt … well there is always room for that. But shopping my stash and taking my time to create things that I KNEW I would love (yes that means I legit did muslin mock ups to correct and perfect before actually using the fabric of choice) was an experience I hadn’t felt in some time. When the world was forced to slow down, so was I.

The start of my jacket construction.
Me trying to sew… Rocco ready for fetch.

Now the truth is…I could’ve made this is in a day, but that would’ve drained me of loving the process and filled me with competition against myself.

So I went piece by piece. First and foremost… get you some quilted denim. The beauty of this make was that because it was quilted it required absolutely no interface. I used bias tape to bind my seam allowances instead of surging them. It looked cleaner and prettier against the quilted fabric.

I made two deep pockets that could hold my keys, phone, wallet and earbuds in one pocket, and my dog leash in the other… all without looking like I’m trying to shoplift a whole store 🤣. Pockets are a thing for me but also sleek placement as well. Though I’m not running the streets, I take Rocco for long walks i hate having to walk with a purse. I kept “we both have to benefit” in mind when constructing this coat.

The final result was perfect 👌🏽. My keys and wallet are in my pocket… guess which one!?
This jacket/ coat passes the crisp Ohio morning test. And raglan sleeves are so much more forgiving on broad shoulders!
I went with three buttons on the breast area to be able to access my pant pockets with ease. When you make something the beauty is you can make it to suit YOUR needs.
I made the top as well…
*proud maker smirk*

All and all this coat was a sweet make that continues to remind me that it’s okay to slow down and do something intentionally and with purpose. This coat is a pattern hack from a raglan jacket pattern that I own!

Advertisement

Fashion Catfish

Blog, Style & Fashion

So Hi! 👋🏽

Happy extended summer as I don’t fully recognize fall…😒

Here’s my anecdote about how I came to make this super dope jumper:

When I attended FIT, a few of my teachers commented on my ability to see a garment or a picture of a garment and be able to draw a rough pattern by sight. One teacher said “you have a wonderful counterfeiters eye!” Color me offended. And I mean UPSET. It greatly impacted my scrutiny on myself on whether I was “copying” or “creating” when it came to anything. It took me a second to realize that being influenced by what you see doesn’t make you a copier and that everything is a variation on the basic precepts of pattern design.

Fast forward to the here and now and fast fashion has become an opportunity for fashion scamming. With the intro of all of these “online only” fashion boutiques fashion catfishing is ever increasing. What do I mean? You see a picture of a thing and it’s poppin. You shell your cash out wait weeks only to get it and it look like “who did it and ran?”

I got got one time but I was a lucky one. I got my money back; however more and more people aren’t getting their money back and it is a helpless feeling.

Now, I’d seen a jumper online that I absolutely LOVED. But it was from a Chinese manufacturer that had TERRIBLE reviews

Like HOW CUTE IS THIS?!?!

Its all comfy and chill…

And I KNOW I could freak it in the fall but the company oshoplive.com has some heinous reviews and I don’t have $40 to waste plus the designer in me was like “Jai… look at the construction; this is a simple sew…” it felt like a Biggie lyric “took home ready to die, listened, studied it!” These are extra long gathered baggy pants with suspenders…

And here is where inspiration vs. copying steps in…

I’m not here for buttons and I truly wanted a simple sew so I made it a onesie rather than a button up. I had some GREAT Indian Batik fabric from JoAnn’s

Cotton & crisp. And two types of blue… what’s not to love?

I actually made it longer than the original I saw (the shoes I’m wearing – ASOS – are 6 inch platforms) because I wanted a maxi dress meets pants feel.

The “suspenders” are snap buttons because I said what I said… I wanted a quick sew.

I trimmed the top with ribbon that I’d had for almost 20 years!!! (That’s another story but I could SMELL MJ Trimmings on it when I ironed it ♥️)

This outfit gave me ethereal meets functional meets funky meets black girl magic! And this is no shot to the one I saw but side by side I’d pick my inspired version any day. And MAKING something leaves little room for you to be disappointed because you have the ability to keep going until you love it.

So all in all this is the story of how fashion catfishing inspired me to make this super dope jumper. I will be making a limited amount to be sold at the end of the month! Elastic top instead of ribbon to give a better one size feel. How would you make this fellow freestyle seamstresses?!?!

Community is Everything! Let’s build!

Gentlemen Prefer Brunettes – Adventures in Sewing

Blog, Style & Fashion

I love being inspired by the size and style of the women in the 50’s (more realistic, less cosmetically altered) and the artistry of couture from the 1930’s – 1950’s.

Beauty was the whole package and not just a “shape”. It was what the woman wore and how she carried herself. That was my inspiration for this dress.

I’m not exceptionally small, I’m not curvy at all; but as Lisa Stansfield belted “I’m all woman” and 💯 % luxurious.

My inspiration came from this burdastyle pattern.

IMG_6241

I’m not a fan of Starburst darting, especially darting like this that pulls to the middle. I have a straight figure and regular sized bust so this would create no real accentuating of anything. At best, this would only highlight my pooch ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

But the simplicity of the cut and the godet train drew me in and I said “self… you can make something like this!” So I pulled out my basic bodice and straight skirt slopers and got to work .

The result was this super dope delicate mermaid flare at the bottom and a wild dope train.

stairwellGatsby standing

This cut (mermaid/ fit & flare) created curves where non exist! Lol and the obi belt that i made to “snatch” my waist; I ended up using as a shawl because I’m really going to learn to appreciate my shape this year!

The godet train gave me my full, entire, whole life.

This fabric was my favorite. I’d been holding this for over a year waiting for the perfect reason to bust this out and use it. It was very Gatsby – Art Deco. Rich gold, pale gold & black – and the design of the fabric was just aesthetically pleasing to me, it stood out, it was rich looking but not gaudy.

It made me feel VERY luxurious. And sometimes a lady just needs to feel that old Hollywood luxury (minus sexism and bigotry)

I ended up having a BLAST at our church banquet and the dressed proved that I could eat AND dance in it. It was a great night and a great (Gatsby of a) dress!

Dress: “The Gatsby” – The Style Cooperative – price upon request

Coat – H&M – gifted but you can get something similar here

Accessories – cuff – gifted

What inspires you?

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Jumpers that work for Summer and Fall

Blog, Style & Fashion

Every day should be brunch attire.  Comfy, chic, flattering. I told my friend “I’m going for part PJ’s, part beast in these streets.”  And as I continue to curate my line to bring you some great style choices this jumper has now been added to the roster.

“Jump Man” Jumper

I made this jumpsuit to be a bright piece to be worn from summer into fall. This particular print is a dope very nostalgic very 90’s African print that I picked up from 116th in Harlem.


The rolled hem, kimono sleeve, and wrap front make this a style ease option for the busty and non busty alike.


Spot the donut. #jdilla


This ain’t ya mothers jumper either. This is definitely backside friendly without being too tight or too loose. Baby Bear.


Pair with a denim jacket and loafers in the fall, or a trench and combat boots for a more “breakfast club” vibe.

How would you rock this? What pattern would you want to see? Want to be first on the list of  this release?! As always:  thefashionunder50@gmail.com

Stay dope! Support your local artists! Let’s build.