First Make of the New Year

Blog, Creatives Create, Style & Fashion, What I Sewed

Soooo HNY!! I’m not making any promises other than posting more 😬

That being said let’s just get right into this make.

I’m into the following things HEAVY:

• Animal Print

• Tiered girly dresses

• Lux minimalism

• Brocade

Hence making this dress!!!

It’s the Fibre Mood “Mira” Dress with a bit of a hack to the sleeves (lengthened and a slight ruching at the shoulder).

It took about 3 hours to make and it was definitely worth it.

The minute I started putting this together, without getting cocky I knew this wasn’t going to be a long make. And that’s the trick. Even though it’s not a lot of pieces, you still have to move with excellence. Altogether 6 pieces and the major work is ruching. But I’m sure a ruffler foot could shorten the time as well.

The only thing this little number lacks is pockets. But best believe the next one will have some. I’m not a huge mini dress girl BUT bayyyybeeeee there will be a few of these in my closet. And you can put leggings or tights or jeans on and boom 💥 a tunic.

Tho minimalist and lux, this dress has a LOT of volume. If you pick the right material, you can truly make a “do all“ dress.

Happy making!

Building a Ladder… My First Coat.

Blog, Creatives Create, Style & Fashion, What I Sewed

I’ve been in this love, schmoozie feeling about sewing lately. Before, it was all about how fast I could pump something out. Then the Rona hit and lockdown followed. But, unlike the perceived masses that blossomed in lockdown, I sort of just kept myself still. Assessing myself, my feelings, letting God speak… LISTENING…

And in the listening, He gave me love back. Not by way of a bae, but in the restoration of loving the work of sewing. I wasn’t consumed with 3 hour sew projects – and no shade because a quick shirt or skirt … well there is always room for that. But shopping my stash and taking my time to create things that I KNEW I would love (yes that means I legit did muslin mock ups to correct and perfect before actually using the fabric of choice) was an experience I hadn’t felt in some time. When the world was forced to slow down, so was I.

Me trying to sew… Rocco ready for fetch.

Now the truth is…I could’ve made this is in a day, but that would’ve drained me of loving the process and filled me with competition against myself.

So I went piece by piece. First and foremost… get you some quilted denim. The beauty of this make was that because it was quilted it required absolutely no interface. I used bias tape to bind my seam allowances instead of surging them. It looked cleaner and prettier against the quilted fabric.

I made two deep pockets that could hold my keys, phone, wallet and earbuds in one pocket, and my dog leash in the other… all without looking like I’m trying to shoplift a whole store 🤣. Pockets are a thing for me but also sleek placement as well. Though I’m not running the streets, I take Rocco for long walks i hate having to walk with a purse. I kept “we both have to benefit” in mind when constructing this coat.

The final result was perfect 👌🏽. My keys and wallet are in my pocket… guess which one!?

This jacket/ coat passes the crisp Ohio morning test. And raglan sleeves are so much more forgiving on broad shoulders!

I went with three buttons on the breast area to be able to access my pant pockets with ease. When you make something the beauty is you can make it to suit YOUR needs.

All and all this coat was a sweet make that continues to remind me that it’s okay to slow down and do something intentionally and with purpose. This coat is a pattern hack from a raglan jacket pattern that I own!

Second Time Around – The Little Dress that Could

Blog, Creatives Create, Style & Fashion, What I Sewed

So let me start off by saying I’m OBSESSED with Cynthia Rowley. I do NOT have CR money but her simplistic cuts, luxurious fabrics, her keen sense of when to puff or ruff(le)… my eye is always drawn to her looks. It’s something about the way she makes bolds look like neutrals and everyday wear. I’m sold. But like i said, she is COMPLETELY out of my price range. When i saw this dress i was sick!

It’s sooooooo cute and quirky. But irl I knew I’d need it a bit longer cuz… booty; so then it became me on a hunt for a similar pattern. Simplicity pattern S8909 came through like a trooper.

Y’all… dress A is practically the Cynthia Rowley dress sans the ruffled hem. AND ITS RAGLAN SLEEVE AND I LOVE A RAGLAN SLEEVE. So in my mind I was like BET! So I had some “tester” fabric in my stash I was willing to make this dress with.

😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐😐

So…

A few things…

Prints are tricky. In theory they work on paper and swatch and coquis but irl WHOLE OTHER BEAST

I’m not a huge pastel girl so this was overwhelming

Construction was simple enough

If you’re focused; this dress can be completed and finished in 5 hours

And then this happened. Sizing for your shape is real and this is why pattern grading is clutch. The first run this was all bulk and the hem was entirely too long. This was the antithesis of a vibe and extremely discouraging BUT you gotta learn from your mistakes and often try again. So that’s what I did.

I shortened the hem AND bottom ruffle.
I went for a more easy bold pattern and made sure it was something I’d be more inclined to wear.
Created darts in the back for a more complimenting silhouette

This was it! the second try was a hit.

Though different; you can definitely see the influence and I love that!

What are your thoughts? Would you sew 🧵 this? Would you use a bold pattern or keep it simple?

I hope you enjoyed! Happy sewing!!!

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Community is EVERYTHING!

The Jane Re-Worked

Style & Fashion

“Make a t-shirt they say… it’ll be fun they say…”

It was.

This Saturday I had the “pleasure” of this quick sew. The quotes are because I managed to complete this even after two + GRUESOME hours of teaching dance WITH a crazy earache that I found out was a middle ear infection after spending hours at a minute clinic.

Wild. But it goes to show how quick this could be if you’re fully able bodied.

So the deets:

This is the Jane Pattern from Seamwork worked in a large. I could’ve fit a medium I’m sure but I really like loose fitting tees.

I reworked the construction of this after making one per their instructions and feeling highly “meh” about it.

Instead of sewing (I actually used my serger for this project) the sleeve to the bodice in a continuous motion; I opted to attach the sleeves by using the inserting method. It falls better IMO.

Collar / crew neck construction

So I saw the logic in how and why they make their collar look like a long flag that you cut on the fold but I like the “formula” way better because I personally think it lays better. But let’s be honest. If you’re using a serger it’s gonna lay just fine.

This knit fabric was incredibly tricky, I still ended up taking about 6/8 of an inch off of each side. I’m going to take that L and say it was me and not the pattern tho. But even with that trim and the 1/2 inch seam allowance you use with serging it, it’s still quite blousy so there’s that.

Now my bother did say the following “Jaikeyl; don’t go making mad white tees, Hanes already cornered the market” and I DO agree. BUT if you see a cute knit or cotton print that you can’t resist OR you always wished your tee sleeves went to your elbow *cough cough easy pattern hack* this is for sure something to keep in your sewist arsenal.

Fashion Catfish

Blog, Style & Fashion

So Hi! 👋🏽

Happy extended summer as I don’t fully recognize fall…😒

Here’s my anecdote about how I came to make this super dope jumper:

When I attended FIT, a few of my teachers commented on my ability to see a garment or a picture of a garment and be able to draw a rough pattern by sight. One teacher said “you have a wonderful counterfeiters eye!” Color me offended. And I mean UPSET. It greatly impacted my scrutiny on myself on whether I was “copying” or “creating” when it came to anything. It took me a second to realize that being influenced by what you see doesn’t make you a copier and that everything is a variation on the basic precepts of pattern design.

Fast forward to the here and now and fast fashion has become an opportunity for fashion scamming. With the intro of all of these “online only” fashion boutiques fashion catfishing is ever increasing. What do I mean? You see a picture of a thing and it’s poppin. You shell your cash out wait weeks only to get it and it look like “who did it and ran?”

I got got one time but I was a lucky one. I got my money back; however more and more people aren’t getting their money back and it is a helpless feeling.

Now, I’d seen a jumper online that I absolutely LOVED. But it was from a Chinese manufacturer that had TERRIBLE reviews

Like HOW CUTE IS THIS?!?!

Its all comfy and chill…

And I KNOW I could freak it in the fall but the company oshoplive.com has some heinous reviews and I don’t have $40 to waste plus the designer in me was like “Jai… look at the construction; this is a simple sew…” it felt like a Biggie lyric “took home ready to die, listened, studied it!” These are extra long gathered baggy pants with suspenders…

And here is where inspiration vs. copying steps in…

I’m not here for buttons and I truly wanted a simple sew so I made it a onesie rather than a button up. I had some GREAT Indian Batik fabric from JoAnn’s

Cotton & crisp. And two types of blue… what’s not to love?

I actually made it longer than the original I saw (the shoes I’m wearing – ASOS – are 6 inch platforms) because I wanted a maxi dress meets pants feel.

The “suspenders” are snap buttons because I said what I said… I wanted a quick sew.

I trimmed the top with ribbon that I’d had for almost 20 years!!! (That’s another story but I could SMELL MJ Trimmings on it when I ironed it ♥️)

This outfit gave me ethereal meets functional meets funky meets black girl magic! And this is no shot to the one I saw but side by side I’d pick my inspired version any day. And MAKING something leaves little room for you to be disappointed because you have the ability to keep going until you love it.

So all in all this is the story of how fashion catfishing inspired me to make this super dope jumper. I will be making a limited amount to be sold at the end of the month! Elastic top instead of ribbon to give a better one size feel. How would you make this fellow freestyle seamstresses?!?!

Community is Everything! Let’s build!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Gentlemen Prefer Brunettes – Adventures in Sewing

Blog, Style & Fashion

I love being inspired by the size and style of the women in the 50’s (more realistic, less cosmetically altered) and the artistry of couture from the 1930’s – 1950’s.

Beauty was the whole package and not just a “shape”. It was what the woman wore and how she carried herself. That was my inspiration for this dress.

I’m not exceptionally small, I’m not curvy at all; but as Lisa Stansfield belted “I’m all woman” and 💯 % luxurious.

My inspiration came from this burdastyle pattern.

I’m not a fan of Starburst darting, especially darting like this that pulls to the middle. I have a straight figure and regular sized bust so this would create no real accentuating of anything. At best, this would only highlight my pooch ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

But the simplicity of the cut and the godet train drew me in and I said “self… you can make something like this!” So I pulled out my basic bodice and straight skirt slopers and got to work .

The result was this super dope delicate mermaid flare at the bottom and a wild dope train.

This cut (mermaid/ fit & flare) created curves where non exist! Lol and the obi belt that i made to “snatch” my waist; I ended up using as a shawl because I’m really going to learn to appreciate my shape this year!

The godet train gave me my full, entire, whole life.

This fabric was my favorite. I’d been holding this for over a year waiting for the perfect reason to bust this out and use it. It was very Gatsby – Art Deco. Rich gold, pale gold & black – and the design of the fabric was just aesthetically pleasing to me, it stood out, it was rich looking but not gaudy.

It made me feel VERY luxurious. And sometimes a lady just needs to feel that old Hollywood luxury (minus sexism and bigotry)

I ended up having a BLAST at our church banquet and the dressed proved that I could eat AND dance in it. It was a great night and a great (Gatsby of a) dress!

Dress: “The Gatsby” – The Style Cooperative – price upon request

Coat – H&M – gifted but you can get something similar here

Accessories – cuff – gifted

What inspires you?

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Jumpers that work for Summer and Fall

Blog, Style & Fashion

Every day should be brunch attire. Comfy, chic, flattering. I told my friend “I’m going for part PJ’s, part beast in these streets.” And as I continue to curate my line to bring you some great style choices this jumper has now been added to the roster.

“Jump Man” Jumper

I made this jumpsuit to be a bright piece to be worn from summer into fall. This particular print is a dope very nostalgic very 90’s African print that I picked up from 116th in Harlem.

The rolled hem, kimono sleeve, and wrap front make this a style ease option for the busty and non busty alike.

Spot the donut. #jdilla

This ain’t ya mothers jumper either. This is definitely backside friendly without being too tight or too loose. Baby Bear.

Pair with a denim jacket and loafers in the fall, or a trench and combat boots for a more “breakfast club” vibe.

How would you rock this? What pattern would you want to see? Want to be first on the list of this release?! As always: thefashionunder50@gmail.com

Stay dope! Support your local artists! Let’s build.

Your Madras

Blog, Style & Fashion

I am a FAN of Madras plaid. I love it, love it, love it. Thing is, when something isn’t on trend you don’t see it around as much. And that sucks because it doesn’t mean it’s not in style.

However, when I was lurking around my local fabric store, I happened upon some non-campy looking Madras! EUREKA’S CASTLE!! So, I got some fabric and went to town on making some super dope wide leg palazzo pants. If you’re a seamstress or you sew, you know that completing a project is bittersweet because on one hand, it’s done, but on the other hand it’s like coming to the end of a binge-a-thon. There is this sick feeling in your stomach that is over. So, what do you do? You go to the fabric store and buy more. Madras is the original statement fabric so why not make two separate things with it? So that’s what I did.

The Short of it

I LOVE jumpers. I love summer but I also like layering so this madras jumper is everything for versatility. In the summer, you can wear it loose or belted.

Don’t like your arms? Throw a T under it. Trying to get away with a jumper and or madras for Casual Friday? Pair this puppy with a button up and some loafers… thank me later cute hipster light hearted librarian.

Feeling like Rudy in the fall & can’t let summer go just yet? Throw some leggings on under this sucker and a denim jacket on top and you’re good money honey!

The Wide of it.

Just wear them already. Soo dramatic. Soo “see me”. Again, you just really cannot go wrong with a high waist, wide leg pant. Flattering for most figures, the waist cinches and creates curves and structure. The darting in the back is a godsend for accentuating backside. And the wide leg airy fabric makes it feel like you’re walking in an evening gown sans the hassle.

If you’re interested in either the Jumper or the pants. Please hit me up for pricing and pair. Support your local artist! Support Small biz & community!

Stay Dope

Shop wisely

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THE STYLE CO-OP

Community is everything. Let's build.

sew

First Make of the New Year

Building a Ladder… My First Coat.

Second Time Around – The Little Dress that Could

The Jane Re-Worked

Fashion Catfish

Gentlemen Prefer Brunettes – Adventures in Sewing

Jumpers that work for Summer and Fall

Your Madras